No that's not me and I am not going to help you find my site because I am not interested in tom dick and Harrys comments. I want to thoughtfully customize every image so JPEGS are totally useless to me and I gave them up in a matter of months, but I can see where they are useful if a "rough stab" is good enough. Worse, if I am shooting JPEGS I am thinking about a non-essential compositional element which is distracting me from essential compositional elements. And then there is no way to predict which setting I will want when I take the picture so I will want to change it anyway. Sometimes I even process the same image with two different settings and keep them both because I like the differences. Even now, unless I have taken multiple shots of the exact same or very similar composition, every file is processed with different settings. I found that I was never quite happy with the JPEGS and would always want to improve something and had to go to the raw file. #Photo mechanic star rating shortcut plusWhen I first bought my D800 a shot Raw plus JPEG. I also appreciate your last paragraph where you point out that everyone may have a different approach that is suitable for their needs. I do understand your style and approach Pistnbroke and it seems to make sense for your needs. There are no F2.8 or even F4 lenses that I can use and as I don't know the OP he may find the 28-300 suits his needs I do think the joy of photography is doing what you want be it a Hassleblad or a disposable camera. I don't get out of focus pictures with my 28-300 because I have set the AF fine tune ,my customers are not interested in bokeh, I don't sell pictures of brick walls.ĭo I want 1500 RAW images to process every few days and when finished jamb them onto a memory stick in JPEG. Nikoniser.I think many users don't even try JPEG at +9 sharp and think using RAW is some badge of honour. Thanks for the advise, I will try your method then. However its worth about 2-4 stops ! so its well worth it. #Photo mechanic star rating shortcut full sizePRIME noise reduction is the real CPU hog, it take about 2 mins 30 seconds for a full size d810 file. If they require further work in photoshop I export as 16bit TIFF, if not I export as JPEG directly to Flikr, review it, then share the album link with my client I then manually crop, straighten and fine tune exposure and colour, before exporting. Then I apply a DXO preset with my favourite auto options ( smart exposure based on face recognition, prime noise reduction, dynamic lighting based on DXO 9, auto Correct distortion and CA from exif, sharpen to 100 ) I then load DXO Optics pro, this reads the star rating, so I filter by star rating so only best file show up. Then I use Photo mechanic to rate the files via stars and zoom in to check sharpness ( re-map the shortcut on your keyboard to something easy ) Photo mechanic is about 20 times faster than lightroom or any other program to cycle through files. I use a workflow that makes for a balance of maximum quality/speed.įirst I use Photomechanic to import and rename to files on my hard drive. Onboard graphics will be fine, the CPU will do most work. Yes an i5 will do fine, 6GB of ram is bit low but easy to upgrade.
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